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Restaurant Review: Cucina Cinzia in Fulham

I should have known that Cucina Cinzia (in Fulham) and I wouldn’t quite get on as I maintain an entirely rational hatred of Fulham and all that it contains. Fulham and I will never be friends. I don’t get up on a Saturday morning and iron a dress shirt for casual wear and then accessorise it with a rugby shirt draped over my shoulders and Fulham doesn’t wear low slung jeans and ride fixed wheel bikes. Fulham’s idea of adventure is going to Devon, my idea of adventure is going to Peckham tonight to try a “meating” (more on that next week).

But seriously now. Fulham is a long way away from my usual haunts in central, East or South London and Cucina Cinzia is a reflection of that. All the supper clubs I have visited up until Cucina Cinzia have been in the edgier bits of London (such as Saltoun Supper Club in Brixton, TOOB in Dalston, F&L in London Fields etc, Civet Cat in Newington Green etc.). Nights tend to be raucous, the food tends to be a bit experimental and the atmosphere free flowing.

Cucina Cinzia isn’t that. It is in the house you hope you will live in when you grow up. The other guests are shirt wearing mothers and fathers or responsible young professional couples. The food is a cuisine that comes from peasants (Tuscan) but has become a byword for the chattering middle classes. I have to admit I had an enjoyable evening and the other guests were pleasant to chat with. There can be no doubt, however, that this is not a standard supper club as evidenced by the fact that Rob and I only drank one of the two bottles of wine we brought with us.

And, briefly, to the food. The standard at Cucina Cinzia is homely Italian. One dish excited me (a desert wine fritelle) and the rest were solid but with a slight over preponderance of veal in both the primo and secondo courses. One touchstone for me whenever I eat Italian is whether the pasta is fresh (which it wasn’t here).  Though I accept it is hard to achieve outside of Italian and its network of shops where you can buy fresh pasta easily (my efforts with a pasta machine are never for more than four people). Also the veal main was a touch dry for my tastes.

For me, if I had the choice between going again or going for a meal at Bocca di Lupo or L’Anima and only spending £30 I would chose the later two options every time as food is paramount to me. However, if you want to try a supper club but don’t fancy a trip to Dalston with all that entails this is a good option.

 Price – £30 and BYO

2 Comments

  1. London Chow

    Ah… supper clubs is really a hit and miss affair. Glad to hear that you found some place great. I especially like your description about the "the house you hope you live in when you grow up". I could picture that immediately though I suspect mine is quite different from you. lol.

    Anyway, have a lovely Easter break. Heading out of town?

  2. Tom

    London Chow – I think with supper clubs so much more is a mystery. Most restaurants you know what you are getting yourself into. You know if you will like the "room" and the ambience. With a supper club – hell who knows? Part of the fun.

    Actually you are right about the house you hope to live in… That would have to be a Clerkenwell town house!

    Have a great Easter yourself. We are mainly spending the weekend doing nothing with a bit of food. Going to Goodmans for lunch shortly and then maybe New Malden for a Korean food adventure. Apart from that just the joy of doing nothing. Hope you have a great Easter.

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