When I read the Hawksmoor brunch menu and the posts from those bloggers who went on day dot I had a slight suspicion that Hawksmoor might be descending into pastiche. As in, we like meat, we cook meat well, let’s do meat with everything. Hell, let’s start doing an afternoon tea with meat scones.
Then I ordered the cornflake milkshake. It is a thing of genius. It may be one of the cleverest things I taste all year. It is the taste of sugared cornflakes which have become rotten and sodden with milk at the bottom of your cereal bowl; frothed and frozen. It works undeniably and indulgently so. The rest of the meal could have been irrelevant as this would have sufficed. I ordered pastiche; a Hawksmoor HkMuffin (see what they did there). An oversized McDonalds McMuffin with quality ingredients (hopefully this won’t be a McLibel). I enjoyed it but it confounded me. It was too difficult to eat. Not in the way of a burger which you can’t get your mouth around but in the way of trying to pin down a slippery eel. Next time I would order it with bacon and flip the top off and attack it with a knife and fork.
This was enough food but we also ordered a side of short rib bubble and squeak which was like no bubble and squeak I’ve had before but severely tasty.
The winner though was what Pete and Ali ordered – The Hawksmoor Breakfast – a pot of pork, pork juices and pork juice infused sides that was plain overwhelming. I ended my meal by gnawing on the bone from their smoked bacon chop which was enough to drive me back.
Puddings were had by all as was quite a lot of alcohol on the side. The marmalade martini, Tom Collins and a ginger beer half pint thing were all fantastic. The Bloody Marys were (despite there being three varieties and one even being “bottomless”) not too my taste and I was a touch disappointed by them. I think it was that there was too much fiddling with what is a simple but yet spot on combo.
The price for all of this was £30 a head. We were there two and a half hours. Not one of the seven of us who went ate again that night. None of us had breakfast before. It is almost a bargain.
Price – £30
PS if brunch is meant to be at 11:00 I would go for 12:00pm or later to give your stomach time to warm up.