Last year one of the bloggers we most respect in Hong Kong – e_ting – kindly organised a Sham Shui Po food tour for Jen and took her on a trawl around some of the best places to eat in the district. I didn’t get to go on that but followed that trail myself at a later date and it, unsurprisingly, blew my mind. Especially the tofu fa. You can e_ting’s post here.
Whilst in most countries you might pick a single destination restaurant for lunch, in Hong Kong that would be a bit of a waste. What you have to do is breathe deep, avoid eating for a couple of days, and then invade an area.
So when I managed to find some ridiculous excuse to visit Hong Kong last weekend I knew what to do before going, I emailed e_ting, Gary and Supercharz and asked them to come up with a food tour of an area I failed to visit enough when we lived in Hong Kong – Mongkok. And they delivered.
Wing Hap Lung
In case you want to recreate it you need to begin nice and early at 11:15am at Wing Hap Lung by Prince Edward MTR. The reason being is that this is the only time you are guaranteed to get a special cut of pork that sells out quickly. I’m not quite sure quite what cut it is but e_ting and Gary pointed at their flanks a few time so that might be it…
This place is most famous for being one of the few places in Hong Kong which still roasts their pork over a charcoal fire and is worth visiting for that alone. We chose a leaner cut of pork that was fairly different than the usual ‘fat overload’ cuts I am used to. A bit tougher to bite. With a touch of mustard it was great.
Kam Wah Cafe
Next up was Kam Wah Cafe that is primarily famous for its pineapple buns stuffed with all sorts of pork based filth and egg tarts.
As I was slightly nervous of how I was going to handle all the food I didn’t have a pineapple bun which I severely regretted after seeing how they are served; fresh, hot and with butter. However the egg tart and iced milk tea I had made me slightly cry at the thought I was only visiting Hong Kong for two days.
Knockbox Coffee used to be in Sheung Wan but has now located up to a far bigger and nicer shop in Mongkok.
Last time I visited I thought it was the standout shop for coffee in Hong Kong as I was served a brewed coffee of some consumate perfection. This time I just needed something to take the edge of and had a piccolo that was similarly good. If I lived in Hong Kong I would go to this shop a lot and learn a lot.
So what is most amazing is that this entire food crawl including Ming Court cost under USD 50 a head. Which is ridiculous considering the quality of the food and also the fact that Ming Court is a 2* Michelin restaurant.
As we went just for dim sum/ yumcha it is hard to properly judge the restaurant. Based on the dim sum alone I am probably still a devotee of Fu Sing but I would definitely come back and try the full menu in the evening though I would still miss a bit of the grittiness that comes for free at Fu Sing.
So that was the Mongkok food invasion. The price was nearly for free and I don’t think you can eat that well, that cheaply, in such small an area in any other city I’ve lived in. And you could probably do another 20 itineraries and still be finding new places to eat.
The other thing about any Mongkok trip is that you forget – or blank out – the people. Oh god the people. Let’s put it like this; sharpen your elbows. Thanks again to E_ting, Gary, Supercharz, Rina and +65 for helping a gweilo who misses Hong Kong to gain weight.
- Wing Hap Lung – 392 Portland Street, Prince Edward, Hong Kong
- Kam Wah Cafe – G/F, 47 Bute Street, Prince Edward, Hong Kong
- Knockbox Coffee – G/F, 21 Hak Po Street, Mongkok, Hong Kong
- Ming Court – 6/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, Hong Kong