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Restaurant Review: Franco Manca in Brixton

Can someone please explain what I am missing? To put it mildly I was excited to go here. Every review, every person who has been here, the freaking zeitgeist; they all say it is something special on a world class scale. Unfortunately it isn’t. It is just cheap local food.

Have a look at the picture above I took of the simpliest of Italian pizzas but the one which is still the touchstone of whether a pizzeria is any good – mozzarella, tomato and basil. As the pictures shows, it is a bit of a mess. The crust *looks* good. Unfortunately the tomato sauce wasn’t thickened properly and never got beyond a liquidy soup which meant that it ran and separated on the top of the pizza and made the base a soggy puddle. The mozzarella was flecked on, with strange chunks of it plonked randomly over the pizza; not enough of it; not well enough laid out. The basil, well where was it? A couple of charred pieces simply don’t give the pizza the opportunity to sing with the taste of the basil.

A crepe pizza

This means that the pizza has the consistency of a crêpe. As you will see from the picture above its natural state is a a folded slop.

We also tried some of the other pizzas, with all the toppings and whatnot. They suffered from the same basic flaws and also a thuggish approach to scatterbombing the pizza with ingredients. It isn’t too much fun to eat a solidified square inch of anchovy rather than having had it disbursed over your pizza.

The upside is its cheap. The atmosphere is also exciting. The rest; propaganda.

Now some may say I am missing the point, this is oven fired goodness. Regional Italian brilliance. It’s not. I spent weeks going round New York trying out proper versions of this. Summer driving trips around Italy further reinforce that this is a pale imitation.

Did I just have a bad visit or something?

  • Price – £10 and under
  • Address – 4 Market Row, Electric Lane SW9 8LD

One Comment

  1. The London Foodie

    Oh no, i am going there with Su-Lin from Tamarind and Thyme early next year….

    Luiz @ The London Foodie

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