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Restaurant Review: Hawksmoor in Spitalfields – a corporate revisit

Hawksmoor is my couple of times a month punchy burger lunch place. Quite frankly I am no longer rich or thin enough to be able to eat there properly in the evenings and run the full gambit of steak and cocktails.

However… in my attempts to be sympathetic to Jen’s January food challenge and out of empathy to her lunch of 2 old apples and some peanut butter I thought I would ensure that at least one of us gets a proper meal by me going to Hawksmoor. The thing was, I wasn’t paying and that changes things.  

Hawksmoor is good but it is punchy. To walk out of there drunk and full is a £50 to £100 enterprise. If you can go there and know full well you wallet is staying shut, it is a whole lot more of fun. So today it was not a burger as usual for me. It was all about steak and sides and sides and sides.

There is little point me going into how ravishing my 300g fillet steak was as reviews have been done better and longer. Simply put it was a charcoal crusted, medium rare bit of happiness. Now onto the sides. The triple cooked chips were better than they usually are when I have them with the burger. They came out in the way of a French cafe, in a high silver container to be  poured on your plate. They combined a well judged fried outer layer with a still soft interior.

As I mentioned in my review of my meal at Byron the other day (review here),  I have a penchant for mac n cheese. For some reason I find this further gelatinous course goes down well with prime beef. I am not sure what cheese Hawksmoor use (possibly from the Savoie region?) but is pungent and delicious. More importantly the mac n cheese is good both at the start (hot) and the end (cold) of the meal. I also tried the slow cooked Portobello mushrooms which were quite frankly awesome and reminded me of their cheese injected brethrens from the Shake Shack in NY. Portobello mushrooms just add so much to good beef and were a refining touch here.

The final problem was that the lunch had to be cut short and I couldn’t have the chocolate sundae but that isn’t really on Hawksmoor.

However, to not appear too keen I have to pickout some problems with the meal which mainly relate to their condiments. First, Hawksmoor’s homemade tomato sauce is just too wholesome for me. It is a bit too watery, a bit too homemade, a bit too much not Heinz. Also, when I have a béarnaise sauce I want lashings of it to drape my steak and chips in. My small pot just wasn’t enough.

 Price – £punchy but I didn’t pay

Hawksmoor on Urbanspoon

3 Comments

  1. The Grubworm

    It can hit your wallet pretty severely, but damn it, like you say, those steaks are worth every penny. The last time i visited i ate probably the best (and biggest) rib eye i've ever eaten. Even now it can be hard to find kitchens brave enough to properly cook a steak rare. Seared and caramelised on the outside, raw, tender and tasty in the middle. Hawksmoor do it perfectly.

    Puddings i thought were so-so, especially compared to the steak. But the cocktails were fabulous. I love the info you get with them – Nick Strange is something of a archaeological, alchemical cocktail-mixing wonder. He revives undeservedly forgotten cocktails like no-one else i've seen.

  2. Tom

    I used to work right by Hawksmoor when it first opened and spent far far too many evenings slinking in there after work to drink some of their concoctions.

    I agree. I haven't found anywhere else in London which comes close. Most other places I think, "I can do better". Here I accept I can't. I just need more corporate jollies.

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