Hong Kong has a few old institutions which have been churning out best in class for a long time. One of these is Kwan Kee located in the no-mans land between Sheung Wan and Kennedy Town and by god can it do a claypot.
Claypot is a simple dish. Take claypot, fill with rice, add topping which will drip fat or juice down into it as flavour, put on charcoal, end. When done well you have this perfect combination of rice and above a crispy skin commingled with juices and flavours.
And Kwan Kee does it perfectly. You’ll know when you reach it as there are tables strewn over the street and a queue of people often lining up. And then you see the charcoal stoves right by the entrance with blackened claypots lined up on them and you smile.
We ordered simply – two claypots, one with Chinese preserved sausage and liver and one with Chinese preserved sausage alone. Suffice to say when visitors come to Hong Kong this is now one of the places we will take them.
Interestingly we also grabbed a starter of deep fried squid that was pitch perfect and would tempt me to experiment a bit more with the menu next time.
The place itself is “local” and by that I mean formica tables, bones and food debris liberally strewn over the tables, the odd drunk here and a family grouping there. Waitresses harang you in and out with utmost efficiency. Sometimes I feel our inability to speak Cantonese might be a bit of an advantage and we just went with the flow.
- Price – 100hkd a head or thereabout. Fantastic
- Shop 1, Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen’s Road West, Western District