Every now and then you make a brutal food error. New World last weekend was that for me. Chinatown has always been a bit risky for dim sum and I would normally divert straight to Yauatcha and have a pitch perfect meal. However, this time we wanted something cheap and fast.
New World has been a Chinatown resident longer than I have been alive. It is a behemoth of a place and what is most disappointing it is that, well, the food is a let down.
I mean, it could nearly be perfect. The years have taken their toll. The paint is scuffed, the interior is tacky, the concept stuck in the 1960s. The clientele a ragtag mix of Chinese families and gormless tourists. The service was indifferent and made its best efforts to ignore you until it came time to get new customers in. The ladies with their trolleys full of baskets of dim sum press more dim sum baskets onto you whilst making no concession to non native speakers. This didn’t have to be a bad thing. Coupled with good dim sum it could be an atmospheric treat.
Instead, what came out was stolid stuff. Surgical tools were broken out to pierce dim sum skins. Squash could have been played with some of them. What was inside could have been regurgitated lizard skin.
Now I know we didn’t help ourselves by going late when the dim sum had been sitting around for a while but please try harder New World if I am ever stupid enough to go there again.
Price – £20 for light portions of inedible dim sum