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Fu Sing Shark Fin Seafood Restaurant – you’ll get fat

Fu Sing (Shark Fin Seafood) Restaurant in Causeway Bay is about as good dim sum or yum cha as you will ever eat. Some restaurants might try to up the game with fancy ingredients (Man Wah and LKH) and some restaurants might be a bit cheaper and have Michelin stars (Tim Ho Wan). All of those have their time and place but for week in, week out yum cha - this is my pick.

And the primary reason is the picture above. Pure char sui or barbecued pork insanity. The best you will ever have in Hong Kong or elsewhere. Fatty, deadly, delicious.

But Fu Sing also offers more than that. Their steamed dishes are good, their fried dishes are good, their unusual dishes you can get off menu or by randomly pointing at the Cantonese menu are good. It really is a complete experience. So what is the downside…

The downside is that Fu Sing is what you know and expect from a traditional Chinese yum cha experience. A horrible dining room with gold and gilt everywhere. Big TVs so no one will miss the races. Noise and chaos pervading every inch. Big, unwieldly tables. Semi abusive service. But the sad thing is I kind of like that.

Now this might seem ridiculous in light of my recent criticisms of places like Otto e Mezzo for their crappy ignorant service. But sometimes a place is what it is. Sometimes half of the charm is in what is not good. Take for instance, the classic English meal – the fry up. When I have a fry up I want formica tables and dated decor. It is part of overall experience.

And here are a couple of tips to try and lessen the downsides of Fu Sing as when the service is bad it is bad… Go early or late on a Saturday or Sunday. That way you get there before the rush and sometimes you will actually have service which is exceptional. And I mean that seriously. Also, for the non Cantonese or English speaking of you – just go for it. Be firmer than you normally would, be more demanding than you normally would, it’s expected.

And as for what to order – char sui, baby bak choy in a milky fish broth, baked bbq pork buns, turnip paste with shrimp cover and more of course.

  • Price – HK$200 to 300 a head
  • 1/F, 68 Yee Wo St, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong (2504 4228)

PS if you go on a Saturday or Sunday and see a tall gweilo in the corner. Say hi.

19 Comments

  1. you had me at char siu….

  2. This all looks proper old school, and whilst I have no doubt that the cha siu is top notch, and that the baked cha siu bao is too but the dish that really catches my eye is the baby bok choi in a milky fish broth. I’m so jealous!

    • That bok choi was a bit of a revelation for me. We just grabbed in randomly and it was freaking fantastic. When I can deal with the warfare with the waiters we normally try to order something else not on the English menu, it is normally amazing.

  3. “Fatty, deadly, delicious”. Enough said. When we come to HK, I want to go there.

  4. Yatkai Wan. Simon

    I’ve been browsing your blog this few days and realized that I’ve got to re-plan my coming trip to HK. Its not that difficult to find good food in HK. HK is my yearly visit place. My Mecca for food and shopping. I don’t have to really search for good review to find my way around HK. But this time, its really different! After reading and few re-visit of your page, it makes me want to verify your comments on those recommended dining spot. Are they really that good? Or its good for a Westerner but so-so for an Asian. Nevertheless, your recommendation and your blogs are quite to the point-no-non-sense thing that couple with some nice photos.

    Well done! You’ve triggered/inspired me to change my coming ‘shopping trip’ to a Food Journey tour!

    • I try to approach the food in this blog in a very international context so if I have had better erm (thinking of Western food) roast chicken in France or London than if I have roast chicken in Hong Kong which doesn’t match up… then it isn’t good.

      Same for Asian food. So if I have had better char sui in London, I’ll downgrade the char sui in Hong Kong. That said I haven’t.

      Also more generally, I am on more of a learning curve in Hong Kong but would say I am about there now to be able to judge properly good Chinese food (in HK) vs average Chinese food (in HK).

      So, let’s just say this, if I say something Western is good it is really is (in a world context). If I say something Asian is good it probably is as I have followed local food bloggers like e_ting and HK Epicurus to those places and ridiculous levels of conversations about the food afterwards (although I am still learning).

      And finally…. Fu Sing Causeway Bay really is that good!

  5. This is totally why teleporters need to be invented.

    I can still remember how amazing this tasted – I want it right now!

  6. did you also order four of everything again? I ate more char siu bao in that hour than in the whole of 2010.

  7. sounds all good!
    BTW My best charsiu(fan) is in a small (dirty) restaurant in gage street (dragon restaurant). have you been there? charsiufan is $30. I would like to know your opinion on their charsiu…

    greeetz,
    Lars

  8. Tom, thanks for the post, the BBQ pork was exceptional. Now I just have to convince my wife to go back there for a second time in as many days in HK! We went late on a Sunday and got very good service (a young man named Chris was most helpful). They even threw in (or forgot to add to the bill?) a sweet milky mango/pomelo dessert that was a great finish.

  9. Emma

    Shark Fin restaurant? REALLY? even if you’re not eating it, that’s totally unacceptable.

    • Yup the restaurant has the name Shark Fin in it, wow. I don’t see a moral wrong in eating there.

      And unless you are a born again vegan who doesn’t eat eggs and refuses to frequent any fancy French restaurants (which all serve foie gras)… well stones and glass houses.

  10. Emma

    A lot of people in HK and in the rest of the world are working really hard to stop people eating shark fin and to stop the particularly grim finning process that goes with it. Recommending (and going to) a restaurant that is called shark fin – and serves shark fin? I’m sure you have (or can) find a restaurant that does equally good dim sum – without supporting this terrible industry.

    • I am afraid as a Westerner I find it rather difficult to attack and ban something which is a part of Chinese and HK culture. I don’t feel that it is my right to do so.

      Why, for instance, isn’t the by those who disagree with finning more of an attempt to push “ethical” shark finning. I.e. to use the whole shark. That would then be no different from the way we all pillage earth’s oceans in the West.

      Whilst I don’t particularly love sharkfin I don’t wholesale object to people eating it as a moral issue any more than I object to people eating veal or dog. I would be similarly reluctant to tell Vietnamese or Korean people they shouldn’t eat dog.

      Many types of food I enjoy and revell in within the European food tradition also come with unpleasant food hertiage. The cheap chicken I buy from Tescos etc. Until I deal with such personal issues and we within the West confront that I cannot agree with a holier than thou campaign.

      And finally, it is one of the best places to eat that type of dim sum in HK. Unfortunately there are few equivalents.

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