I, annoyingly, have a bit of a fetish for (good) molecular cuisine. A few meals at certain restaurants in London(ish), Spain and New York have meant that whereever possible I’ll make the detour to try a new molecular chef.
Unfortuantely, most of these meals are absolute toss. And this is especially so in Asia (excluding Japan). All of the molecular cuisine I have tried here has demonstrated a miserable level of skill and/or innovation which typically involves dump liquid nitrogen everywhere and hope the customers don’t notice the chef can’t cook.
So when I heard about Sra Bua (ridculous name) by (pretentious) Kiin Kiin (foreign) at the Siam Kempinski Hotel (over opulent) in Bangkok I was hooked but went expecting a disaster.
And, quite amazingly, it was good.
Despite fine dining in Bangkok being almost an idiot’s choice as removes you from the vibrant brilliance of the stalls and street food it has one advantage; the price. High end food in Bangkok is very cheap for anyone coming from the rest of the world.
Sra Bua is as overwrought and high end as it comes but it even with a lot of alcohol it cost under 10,000 baht for two (200 pounds). An equivalent meal in most countries would cost that per head.
And Sra Bua also delivers. Kiin Kiin managed to take the familiar of Thai food and separate and deconstruct it into something fun and more. I’ll only mention one dish in detail – a frozen red curry with lobster and coriander. This is the “liquid nitrogen” dish at Sra Bua but underneath the fog of the nitrogen hides what is red curry ice cream. Red curry ice cream which holds all the spice, sweetness and joy of a proper red curry rendered smooth and enticing. A joyous dish.
It wasn’t all sucesses, the deconstructed tom yum goong was lifeless and the dessert chef should be sacked as all of the postres were terrible dry affairs. However, overall, it was a fun and inventive meal.
Still it wasn’t as good as Bo.lan (next post).
- Price – 10,000 baht for two
- 991/9 Rama 1 Road, Patumwan, Bangkok
PS for the other posts on Bangkok click here.